Sicily. 1984 . Wondering about the Mafia.
A description of our year in
Italy, 1984-85 would not be complete without a chapter on our “ adventures” in Sicily. Although one can drive to Sicily from Rome,
and there are no passports or visas required, it is quite a different country.
The language is different, that is, the dialect is quite pronounced, and the
customs and even the people look different. It is a mixture of the
Mediterranean: Italians, Greeks, Arabs, and the descendants of the Crusaders,
who used Sicily as a port of call during the crusades and left a lot of blue
eyed, blonde children, still seen in many isolated villages.
Messina is the gateway to Sicily. It is a
large port city, the first city you arrive in when you leave the toe of Italy.
It is a pleasant city, with palm trees, and definitely has a Mediterranean
atmosphere. It was our first port of call, since R, the director of the lab in
Rome had asked me to deliver some cells to the lab of Dr. A at the Microbiology
Department at the University. Instead of actually going to the department we
met Dr. A and his boss, the chairman of the department, Professor L at a
restaurant in the city. We had not
planned on staying in Messina any length of time, since we were planning a
vacation and tour of the island. Our
first stop was to be Taormina. However
for some reason we did stay overnight in Messina at the Jolli Hotel, which was
the best hotel at that time in the town. We did meet with Dr A and Professor L both very friendly
individuals, who insisted in paying our hotel bill and they decided that they
would visit us again within a few days in Taormina and show us around. We
actually were not very keen on this since we wanted a vacation on our own but
they insisted, this was Italian hospitality. Taormina is a beautiful small
picturesque town South of Messina. Today it is a town for the jet setters, and
the ritzy set with very fancy hotels. I don’t remember where we stayed other
than that it was on a very narrow street, on the top of a hill, overlooking the
city. We spent our time walking around the town, with its Greek ruins and old
Jewish Quarter .It is a very colorful town, as are all towns of Sicily, with gaudy
hand painted doors, painted and decorated wagons pulled by horses or used to
display flowers. We went for walks exploring the nearby villages, which were picturesque
but poor compared to Taormina itself.. As expected after a couple of days Dr L called on us. Dr. A could not make it. Dr. L drove a large Cadillac which with difficulty
could maneuver in the narrow streets of the city. He insisted we come with him
to a restaurant on the beach, just outside Taormina, in a small town called
Naxos. It seems its real name is “ the Gardens of Naxos”. I remember the name
because of the association with Greece since we have been recently (2010) to the Island of Naxos. Professor L had
everything arranged. When we arrived at the restaurant there was much bowing
and hugging in the Italian fashion, and we did have a pleasant meal. When we
got up to go back to the hotel (in the Cadillac), no money changed hands that I
could see. Knowing this was Sicily, I said to myself, must be some Mafia
arrangement, but I could be wrong. I had
probably seen too many movies including the Godfather. It was just that
Professor L fitted into the stereotype, soft hat, heavy overcoat, rather
portly, he looked like my or Hollywood image of a Mafia “ godfather”.
From Taormina one obtains a
great view of Mt. Etna. The mountain was usually covered by cloud or smoke. It
still is a living volcano that erupts periodically. At the foot of the mountain
there are still quite a few small white villages and we drove around, I ,at
least rather scared of possible
eruption.
I will not give you a tour of Sicily, suffice
to say that we drove through all the ancient Greek and Roman cities, Syracusa,
Agrigentum, and passed through the
center of the island past snowy peaks ( this was spring or early summer),
stopping at Piazza Armerina, famous for its Roman Villa. This was a villa belonging to a wealthy
Roman. The frescoes on the walls of the various rooms are extremely well
maintained, and depict scenes from every day life, including 10 women wearing
two piece bathing suites (bikini’s) playing various sports, as well as more
prosaic frescoes of wild animals and hunting scenes. I really was amazed at the murals of the women
in Bikini’s. As it says in Ecclesiastes “What has been will be again, what has been done will be
done again; there is nothing new under
the sun”. We drove back up to the North coast finally
reached Palermo, with its magnificent cathedral. As we walked down one of the main streets of
Palermo, looking at the shop windows, Mimi started yelling in a loud voice,
stop, stop,. For a moment I had no idea what had happened. I stood paralyzed. A motorcyclist riding on the
pavement had snatched her handbag. It
contained quite a bit of cash, credit cards and keys to our apartment in Rome. We approached a driver in a small car who was close to us, but he
would not give chase to the cyclist.. My suspicion is that he was in league
with the thief. We wearily made our way to the nearest police station, where
they took down all particulars of the theft. Being robbed was not a nice feeling, it was a
personal affront, and left us feeling rather foolish . The previous day a group
of tourists had their bus held up at gunpoint and stripped of all their
jewelry.. However in this event the Mafia
did intervene and insisted the
robbers give back their loot, since such happenings were destructive to the
tourist business. Unfortunately in our case, the police did nothing, or at
least said they could do nothing, and we had to spend the next few hours
phoning around cancelling our credit cards. We also had to call Senor F in Rome
and tell him that the apartment was in danger since the keys and address of the
apartment were in the handbag. Realizing that we were in some panic, he
suggested we meet with his cousin, a Professor of Physiology, a resident of Palermo. He would supply us with needed cash,
since without our credit cards and stolen cash we had very little money left to
pay our hotel expenses. In fact I did not think of it at the time, but once we
cancelled our credit cards how would we pay the hotel ?
Professor S. appeared, gave us
an envelope containing about $500 and invited us home for coffee and drinks.
This show of hospitality certainly calmed us down and was very much appreciated.
On our way back we had planned on staying the night in Messina, and again our “
guardian angel” paid the bill. I think I had told him of our misadventure in
Palermo by phone. . Dr L invited us to spend some time on his house on one of
the Aeolian Islands of the coast of Sicily, but we declined. Perhaps we should have taken the opportunity
of seeing a different side of life.
I was invited a few weeks later to come down
to Messina again and give a seminar.
Again I stayed at the Jolli hotel. During my first evening I was shown
around Messina and told of the
devastating earthquake and Tsunami of 1908 which destroyed the city, and killed
as many as 100,000 inhabitants. I had
previously experienced an earthquake in Mexico, and so could imagine what it
must have felt like. The earthquake in Acapulco was probably around 6, and
really did shake up everything. The story of the 1908 earthquake made me very
nervous and apprehensive. What would I do if it happened again ?. but in
contradiction to what I have written above I said to myself, history does not
repeat itself, and I am worrying over nothing. I had just got into my pajama
and into bed, when I began to feel everything shaking. Was this my imagination
or a dream ?. The shaking and swaying continued for some time. I rushed down
stairs (I was on the top story) and found most people standing outside,
discussing the tremors. Their attitude was very nonchalant, since this is a
common occurrence in this part of the world. I eventually went back up to bed, but could not sleep
because of the aftershocks. It was not a
serious earthquake in that there were few casualties, a few heart attacks and
panic attacks, but I was quite shaken . I had pictures in my mind of waking up
in the morning and wondering around a devastated city.
Anyhow the next day I gave
my seminar, met with the faculty, and Dr. L asked me whether he could send one
of his students to my lab in the States as a post-doctoral student. I met D,
she seemed eager to come, and was well qualified. Her English was good, and so
the arrangements were made that she should join the lab on my return. D. was a
nice person to work with and her stay was quite productive. I later found out from a colleague in Denmark,
that Dr.L. had been shipping D. to my lab (as he had previously done to Denmark)
in the hope that she would find a husband. That was not to be,: however she did
marry a native Sicilian few years later.
After D had been in the lab
some time, I received a communication from Dr. L and Dr. A that they would be
in the States and would like to visit me in Bloomington. I arranged for a
seminar for Dr A., which was actually of very little interest to our faculty,
and invited the two of them plus a few students for dinner. After the seminar
they visited the lab, and one of my more outspoken students, a native “ Hoosier”
who had never been out of the USA says to Dr. L when he came into the lab “Hi, you look just
like what I imagined a Mafioso to look like “ . As mentioned Dr. L was a bulky well dressed gentleman with
a topcoat, and soft hat, not at all like a scientist, who might go around with
jeans or at least short sleeves. This particular student, JD had been working
on interferon, the same area of research
as Dr. A and thus had seemed appropriate to invite home for a dinner party.
Somehow at dinner the conversation came round to the trial of a group of mobsters going on in New York , the trial of the “ five families’ and Dr. L let drop in the conversation that one of them was a distant relative. There was an embarrassed silence all round. I think JD realized the faux pas he had made in the lab. Was Dr. L in the Mafia, was he a “god-Father”. ? I don’t know. D indicated that he certainly looked after the members of the department, and that it was difficult to achieve the position of head of a department in Sicily without such connections. I don’t think I will ever know the truth and I let it rest at that. I have often wondered.
Somehow at dinner the conversation came round to the trial of a group of mobsters going on in New York , the trial of the “ five families’ and Dr. L let drop in the conversation that one of them was a distant relative. There was an embarrassed silence all round. I think JD realized the faux pas he had made in the lab. Was Dr. L in the Mafia, was he a “god-Father”. ? I don’t know. D indicated that he certainly looked after the members of the department, and that it was difficult to achieve the position of head of a department in Sicily without such connections. I don’t think I will ever know the truth and I let it rest at that. I have often wondered.
Despite the misadventure in
Palermo, our visit to Sicily was very memorable, a beautiful and interesting
country., and certainly the faculty of the microbiology department were very
hospitable.
Post Script. From the Daily
Telegraph 2000.
Headline: One
of Italy's leading universities has been infiltrated by the Calabrian Mafia for
25 years, say investigators.
They made the claim after police arrested 37 academics,
doctors and students linked to the University of Messina in Sicily last week. A
further 79 professors and researchers have been placed under formal
investigation.
The unprecedented police raid, which has shocked the rest
of Italian academia, followed a three-year inquiry into allegations of
Mafia-run violence and corruption at the 452-year-old institution.
Italy's university system is famously corrupt with rampant
nepotism and sinecures, but Messina is the only university to have been exposed
as having direct mafia connections.
In recent years two Messina professors have been
kneecapped by unknown assailants, four bombs have exploded in university
buildings and the cars of several academics have been set on fire outside their
homes. Lecturers have been threatened before examinations by students claiming
Mafia backing at all levels of the university hierarchy.”
However I could not
find Dr. L or Dr. A’s name on any of the published list. Most of those involved
were in the medical sciences as were these two. I am still wondering.